Raindrops on Pintxos in San Sebastian, Part 2

                           

The next morning we woke up in San Sebastian to cloudy grey skies and humidity-we hung onto the fact that it was only 8:30 am and the weather report we read only gave 60% chance of precipitation and drove to the Renfe station to pick Laura and Casey up. They were waiting for us and we gave big hugs and lots of bienvenidos on the quick trip back past La Concha and to the campground. As we ate neapolitanas de chocolate an "ocean mist" started blowing in, so we quickly set up their tent and went to shower and start the day. As we finished showering the clouds opened up and we ran for shelter. The camp employees told us, "Eh, it rains and it doesn't rain, you never know" and we debated on heading to Bilbao for the day, but suddenly the rain let up and we decided to go for it and hopefully spend the day at this most famous beach- by the afternoon it was going to stop raining anyway, right?

Playa Ondaretta-the smaller beach next to La Concha

                          

                         

                             

 First stop the beach. Walking past rows of blue and white chairs and umbrellas, we read some of the history of La Concha and the city and we played in the waves-getting soaked-looking for shells and sea glass. When the rain started to pour again we were already soaked so we took it with stride and headed into the city.            

                                 

                          

We we hungry and ready for more pintxos. We tried some new places and found quite a few vegetarian options: goat cheese with tomato marmalade or caramelized onions, Spansh tortillas, tiny Basque peppers, and stuffed mushrooms to name just a few- and tried the Basque white wine, Txakoli, poured from on high like Spanish cider. When finished it was still raining...we were still soaked, so we ate more. Still wet and getting colder-so we bought some sweaters and umbrellas and ate even more. By the time we lost all hope that the rain would let up-hurricane like winds were bending the trees lining the main avenues and we decided maybe we should check on the tents. They were fine so we and all the other campers took refuge in the camp bar drinking beer and mojitos and playing cards until dinner. More pintxos and rain at dinner unfortunatly made our decision to give up on seeing more of San Sebastian. After a long rainy night, we packed up in the pouring rain the next morning, said Agur (Basque for goodbye) and hope to see you again on a sunny day to the city and hightailed it to Bilbao-cold, wet, and tired-but happily, filled with pintxos.

Raindrops on Pintxos in San Sebastian, Part 1

After flirting with the idea of a roadtrip from Dijon, France (my future home, more details to come) and Santiago de Compostela (my current home)-imagining picnics in vineyards and walled midievil cities in France and beach upon beach and culinary heaven on the Cantabrian coast of Spain-this year's European adventure was cut to the second leg of the original idea-a week long road trip from the mountainous coast of San Sebastian to the green hills of Galicia with Diego, my bestie and her man. 

Diego and I set off from Santiago and made it all the way to San Sebastian in a short 8 hours, a pitstop in Burgos to see some friends there for lunch was the perfect break. The drive was a geographical history lesson, passing through the fortress of green hills that seperated Galicia from Castilla for hundreds of years, following the flat golden fields of the Castillian Camino de Santiago, and reaching the jutting spires of green mountains and long tunnels that have seperated the Basque country from the rest of Spain for hundreds of years. Just the drive in itself is enough to understand how the autonomous languages and cultures of Spain have remained seperate and strong-the thought of travel through these parts without national highways, bridges, tunnels, and a car even just 100 years ago is incredible. 

Galicia

Basque Country

We arrived to San Sebastian about sunset, and headed up Mount Igueldo to the campsite where we had reserved two nights. A long line of campers, speaking German, Spanish, French, and English, sat waiting to make their reservation. We were happy to have called ahead knowing we would have a place to sleep. After about 40 minutes we got to our campsite set up the tent, and headed back down the mountian into the city. 

Without a map, just a small guidebook and the help of a few San Sebastianites we made our way to the old town and the world famous Pintxos-the Basque Country has more Michelin stars than any other part of Spain. Being Monday night, there wasn't much going on in the city, but looking into the pintxo bars the array of beautifully arranged plates overflowing with little Basque style hors d'ourves was making us hungry. After a stroll around we picked a bar called Iskiña-probably the best place we tried while we were there. An animated waiter explained to us how the system worked-ask for a plate, fill the plate with whatever you want, show the waiter the plate when you have finished (to heat up anything that needs to be warm and keep track of your tab) and enjoy. Our favorites were the most amazing perfectly melted Croquetas de Jamon, and the Cod specialties Bacalao Pil Pil-melt in your mouth garlicy goodness (and it must be said I usually don't like Bacalao) and Bacalao a la Vizcayana-delcious tomato peppery sauce with shredded bacalao-warm and delicious. A few cañas and two plates later we headed to see Playa de la Concha where in September Hollywood stars pose at the Donostia Film Festival, and the lights of the city and the mountians lining the beach were sparkling. We headed back up Igueldo for the night, ready to pick up our guests bright* and early at the train station the next morning. 

(click on the links in the text for travel info and recipes)

Coca

Not your average Spanish tortilla dinner, coca is like a Spanish style pizza/foccacia. My lovely friend Ashley spends her summers in Menorca with her husband's family and says coca is an everyday staple in their diet-I'm hoping that one day we can take a summer trip to the island to visit them and try the real thing, but until then the recipe from Dabble magazine (jul-aug.issue pg. 143) is going to have to suffice.

(ps.I'm totally diggin dabble the perfect mix of design, food, and travel in an online magazine.)

Fudgesicles!

My favorite (cold) summer snack! And so easy to make-see the recipe here!

(thanks smitten kitchen)

más Madrid

 We took a quick trip to Madrid to start the process for Diego's residency visa last week-step one is complete, two more to go! The rest of the trip we relaxed on terraces with tinto de veranos, window shopped in Chueca and Fuencarral, enjoyed PhotoEspaña exhibits, and took an afternoon stroll at the Real Jardin Botánico.

Easy Tinto de Verano: 

1 (3 1/4 cup) bottle red wine (make it a cheap one) 

2 liters lime flavored seltzer water

2 cups sugar 

4 slices oranges (to garnish)

Mickey D's

Isn't it funny how McDonalds changes the menu to fit cultures? Now serving toast with tomato and olive oil, a Spanish classic. 

Tapeando

We started Santiagoetapas yesterday, and discovered this gem of the city O Curro da Parra a teeny tiny stone hallway with a little upstairs dining area, great design (I love the lighting) and delicious tapas : Galician Bloody Mary with pimentos de padron and cockels andMussels with Creamy Bacon. We'll go next time your in town.

Curto e Tapas

On the list of things to do in Santiago this week...Curtocircuito: Short film festival. Hoping to catch a showing in the street and some Santiago(é)tapas...I'm determined to fill up a tapas passport this year!

Sushi redone

I want to take burrito sushi to a party now!! And for desert have nutella makis!!

La comida perfecta para una fiesta! Burrito sushi! Y nutella makis para el postre!

From the Kitchn via No Face Plate and El Pais Semanal.

Olive pits...

I want one of these! Not ony for pistachios and olives...but a big one for eating shrimp! What a perfect place to put those shrimp heads. Why didn't I think of this?

Ps: Are you brave enough to eat the shrimp head? They say it's the best part...

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¡Quiero uno de estos! No solo para los pistachos y aceitunas, pero uno grande para comer gambas también...el sitio perfecto para todas las cabezas. ¿Porqué nunca había pensado en esto?

Pd: ¿Te atreves a comer la cabeza de gamba? dicen que es la parte más rica...

(via Kitchn)

PB cups

Oh man, have to post these so I don't forget about making them sometime (this blog is turning into my online recipe file). They look soo easy, and any American abroad can tell you that peanut butter anything is greatly missed. Speaking of peanute butter, I can only find one brand here, Capitán Mani, and I do like it. Anyone else out there found or tried any other brands? Ohh and where the recipe calls for graham crackers, just use digestive cookies, and I'd probably change the muffin tin size to baby size, don't want to get too crazy.

Tengo que bloggear estos para no olvidar de hacerlos en algún momento (poco a poco esto se está convirtiendo en mi archivo de recetas). Pero, bueno. Parecen super fáciles de hacer-solo cambiaría el tamaño del recipiente a uno más pequeño. Cualquier americano fuera de casa puede decirte como nos extrañamos el "peanut butter". Solo encuentro una marca por estos lados, Capitán Mani, y me gusta. ¿Alguien fuera de USA a encontrado otra marca buena? Y una cosita más, donde la receta usa "graham crackers", hay que sustituir unas galletas digestive.

(Thank you Design*Sponge. Gracias D*Sponge)

Bagels!

I know, it seems like all I talk about is food but Sunday evenings has turned into baking time for two reasons: it keeps the house warm and is delicious. Last nights plan-breakfast baking. Chocolate muffins-no real art there. They were so easy and turned out well. But, the big challenge was bagels. You can't find them in Santiago and everynow and then on a rushed morning, picking one up instead of a croissant (even though I do love a croissant!) sounds ideal. Sooo...I got on Internet and found the easiest recipe and while chatting with my mom made some lovely little bagels. I even got crazy and put some salt and cheese on a few. They were actually not that difficult...and well worth the time and well enjoyed as breakfast this morning. I feel like a pro now.

Ya lo sé, parece que siempre estoy hablando de comida pero las tardes de los domingos se han convertido en noches de hornear-por dos razones: mantiene un calorcito en la casa y comimos algo delicioso. Anoche decidí hacer cosas para desayunar. Empecé con muffins de chocolate-nada de manjar es eso. Me salieron muy fácil y buenos. Pero el reto de la tarde era hacer unos bagels. Aquí en Santiago no los encuentro y de vez en cuando en una mañana de prisa me gustaría tener la opción de o croissant o bagel. Entonces...me metí en Internet, encontré la receta más fácil y mientras hablé con mi mamá por teléfono hice unos bagels deliciosos! Hasta experimenté y añadí sal y queso en algunos. La verdad es que no son tan difíciles de hacer como había pensado, y vale la pena invertir el tiempo en hacerlos. Desayuné rico esta mañana, y me siento todo una profesional.

Fresh

Hey snowbirds...hope the snowday in the states has been restful and warm and creative and productive inside your cozy homes. I've been working...but before lunch, since it was a beautiful day here, I took a walk through the Praza de Abastos to buy an avocado for lunch and dinner. The market was buzzing today, surprising to me as usually it's busy Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday mornings. The fish stalls were packed and everything looked so bright and fresh...and strangely enough I even caught myself thinking..."yummmm"!Anyway, I really wanted to finally share this funny milk machine. I guess getting the cow to the city is difficult, so instead, for 30 cents you can get a reusable class glass milk bottle to fill with a liter of fresh dairy milk for 1 euro. It was closed today...but I'm thinking maybe Friday we can take the night off and wake up early Saturday morning to try it out. Have you ever seen one of these?

Also, I know Mr. Groundhog Phil didn't see his shadow (good news for you blizzard folk) and supposedly winter will be shorter...and in Spain legend of the Candelaria holds that if it is sunny on Febeuary 2, winter will be longer (bad news for us and our electric bill). But I think the French get it better than all of us celebrating today with a crepe party! Now you know what to make for dinner!

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Hola guapas...espero que las de EEUU esteís pasando un día de nieve genial productivas creativas, tranquilas, y calientitas en casita. Yo trabajé todo el día, pero pasé por la Praza de Abastos antes de comer para aprovechar del solazo que hacía y comprar un aguacate. El mercado tenía bastante vida hoy, me sorprendió porque los días con más gente son los martes, jueves, y sábados. Los vendedores de pescado y mariscos tenían muchísimo producto y todo tan fresco y bonito que hasta me encontré a mi misma pensando en lo rico que se veía todo!

Pero, lo que realmente quería enseñaros es la graciosa máquina de leche. Me supongo que traer una vaca a la ciudad podría ser difícil, entonces pagando 30 centimos compras una botella de vidrio y por un euro la llenas con leche fresca de la máquina. Hoy estaba cerrada, pero igual podemos levantarnos para aprovechar el mercado el sábado. ¿Habíais visto una de estas máquinas alguna vez?

También, sé que Sr. Marmota Phil vio su sombra por lo cual significa que el invierno americano durará poco (suerte para vosotras!), y también otra leyenda español de la Candelaría dice que un día de sol el 2 de febrero es un invierno largo (malo para nosotros), pero lo mejor de todos en lo que celebran los franceses hoy...día de la crepe! Ya sabéis lo que hay que cenar hoy...

Drums, Chefs, Soldiers

Last week I was surprised by the annual Tamborrada in San Sebastian. Every January 20th the people of the city celebrate with a day and night full of beating drums. Parades fill the streets...and beating drums. It's not the first extremely noisy party I've heard about in Spain-Las Fallas in Valencia are said to drive you mad with the sounds of firecrakers going off all day for a week-but it is the first party where parades of people dressed like chefs fill the street! Basque country is famous for its food and La Tamborrada is a good opportunity to pay respect-from what I saw on the news if you're not beating drums on the street you're probably eating at the competitions that the many culinary clubs of the city host.

La Tamborrada. de san sebastien

Me sorprendió la semana pasada la fiesta de La Tamborrada que se celebran el 20 de enero todos los años en San Sebastián. Ese día los ciudadanos llenan las calles con el ruido del tambor para el día de San Sebastián-¡todos dando al tambor! No es la primera fiesta ruidosa de España-Las fallas en Valencia también tiene fama por el ruido incesante de petardos todo el día y toda la nocho durante una semana-pero La Tamborrada es la primera fiesta donde he visto desfiles de chefs llenando las calles. El país vasco es famoso por su cocina y la tamborrada es buena oportunidad para comprobarlo-si no estás con el tambor en la calle, probablemente estarás en una de las cenas de los concursos de sus sociedades gastronómicas.

By the ponte

We had our work holiday party last weekend. It was fun to see everyone all dressed up and the food was soooooo good: zamburiñas (small scallops from Galicia), Norwegian lobster, Monkfish, and the biggest steaks ever. And the setting in Ponte Maceira-a tiny village next to a rushing river and framed with a medieval bridge-was ideal!!

Celebramos la cena de navidad del trabajo el fin de pasado. Me encantó ver a todo el mundo vestido de noche y la comida estuvo buenísima: zamburiñas, cigalas, rape, y los chuletones más grandes del mundo. Y el entorno, Ponte Maceira-un pequeño pueble al lado de un río con un puente medieval-era ideal.

Del Maguey

Tequila has a bad rap. I can attest to it sometimes being more than one can handle. But I can also say that when drunk responsibly it's flavor is unbeatable. I've never had mezcal, but this one-featured in a list of ten best wines of 2010...yes wines-looks like a good place to start. Pretty bottle. Pretty story. Ekkk....and pretty price tag. Maybe one slowly savored classy shot.

...

If its sibling mezcals are more robust, this one wears ballet slippers - full of floral high tones, peaches, pepper and ginger. It is, frankly, a shame to do anything but sip the Albarradas slowly, perhaps with a plate of white-fleshed ceviche on the side.

Read more.

El tequila tiene mala fama. Yo soy la primera que te puede decir que a veces resulta ser más de lo que uno puede aguantar. Pero también puedo contar que cuando lo bebes responsablemente su sabor es único. Nunca tomé el mezcal, pero este que incluyeron en una lista de los 10 mejores vinos del 2010-si los mejores vinos- parece ser un buen comienzo. Una botella bonita. Una historia bonita. Ayyy....y un precio bonito...quizás solo un chupito despacio, saboreado, y con clase.

Decant or not to decant

Do you ever decant your wine? I got a free decanter with a cosmetic purchase last year...but it's still in the box, just seems silly to get another dish dirty. But what do I know, apparently it does change the taste of the wine, so Spanish chef, Martín Berasategui, has designed a new bottle that decants without the decanter. Abadia da Cova, a Galician winery in the Ribeira Sacra will be one of the first to use it. Maybe now I´ll finally decant wine.

tabla de quesos

The perfect dinner. Coming home from work around 10:30pm after a long evening teaching, cheese, pates and apple membrillo with a glass of wine makes the perfect escape. Thanks Asturias for your delicious cheese. (ps...sorry Francophiles out there, but France has nothing on Spanish wine and cheese. I'm considering making it my new job to let the world know...a cheese and wine research road trip for a new book may be in store.) What's your favorite late night light dinner?

Portion Control

European portions are smaller?? Myth.

Proof: Gigantic Palmera. Seriously the size of my head...or bigger.

with love from Paris...

Christmas came early via the prettiest and most delicious macaroons fresh from Paris from mon petit amie toujours.