Jamonlandia

In el pueblo...

2011-08-30T10:57:00.002+02:00

We spent our last weekend in Spain relaxing in the campo with the family for the town's summer fiesta. The town fills with everyone who has moved to the city who came back for a weekend of visits, meals, and the mass for their local patron saint, the Virgen de los Dolores. With everything packed in Santiago we headed out to the starfilled cold nights and the bright sunny days in the mountians of Galicia.

ps...a pound of fresh Galician bread...and the old wood burning oven that dinner was cooked in.

Alaska y Mario

2011-08-29T10:23:00.000+02:00

Spain's version of MTV reality TV a la The Osbornes is Alaska y Mario. Alaska is famous for her role in La Bola de Cristal-a vanguard childrens' program made in the 1980's when Spain was taking its first dramatic steps out of the Franco dictatorship-and for the 1980's cult classic dance band named after her, Alaska. Her man, recently husband, Mario is Mario, PR rep for a few other famous Spanish stars, he's also played around in the world of music writing lyrics for Alaska and singing in his own band Nancys Rubias. Anyway, they are quite the pair- I think my favorite scene from their reality show was one of them picking out their outfits for a party together or maybe when they spent the day playing dominos with Alaska's mom. In any case, as exentric as they are you can't help but love them and they make for the best programming on MTV Spain. Here's a little intro clip-or you can watch an episode clicking on the Alaska y Mario link above.

last days of summer...

2011-08-28T10:53:00.000+02:00

We're off to the pueblo for the anual end of summer fiesta this weekend-lots of food, family, and parades. Can you believe summer is almost over? I'm excited for fall, but will miss sunny, sandy beach hopping on the amazing coasts of Galicia. One of my favorite things about summer is a day at the beach with a good book. What will you miss about summer?

Vélo

2011-08-27T09:46:00.012+02:00

I'm going to need a bike for all these dreamy bike rides through the French countryside. I'd love to have a Public bike but they are a bit expensive for my price range and from what I see on the website don't ship to France. I'd love to have a Schwinn too, but a new Schwinn is expensive too and not easy to find in Europe. I'm going to check used bikes when we get to France, but the easiest choice now is a city bike from the European sports budget superstore Decathlon. This version is mid priced, comes with a basket, and can be either red or purple. I can't really decide what color I like more-red is super classic, but purple is unique. What do you think?

Audrey

Brigitte Bardot

Jackie O

Lauren Bacall

ps...Lonely Planet even has a book dedicated to cycling in France-Check it out here.

pss...See more classics on bikes here.

ch-ch-ch-ch-changes

2011-08-26T12:50:00.005+02:00

As I briefly mentioned before Diego and I are packing our suitcases and about to embark on a new adventure-one year in Dijon, France. Famous for mustard-Dijon is also the capital of the Burgundy region of France, yes that means lots of burgundy wine! I'm so excited to spend a fall taking bike rides (can't wait to buy a bike-with a basket of course) to vineyards and trying new foods (really interested to taste French butter-people are crazy about it, can it really be that different?). Diego will be teaching Spanish language and culture at the university and I'll be teaching English, learning French, and hopefully taking some cooking classes between trips to the marche...haha. I know it's all so cliche, but who ever thought I would actually be living in France?! I'm going to live it up.

While I am already dreaming about the possibilities of daily life, we haven't actually got a place to live. We'll start the search upon arrival next week. From what I've seen online most French appartements don't come furnished so,aside from thrifting again, I'm on a mission to see what I can come up with at Ikea for the cheapest possible price. What do you think about this option for about 200 euros?

(Photos on the wall, not Ikea-and I based the prices in the French Ikea site)

chez moi...

2011-08-23T14:49:00.000+02:00

Discovered second hand online shopping in Dijon...wouldn't these be the perfect dreamy start to our new French maison?? (haha and yes, that's a piano-I've always wanted to play)

Santillana del Mar

2011-08-18T10:30:00.004+02:00

Day four of the trip and the longest drive so far had been about an hour. The road from Santander to Oviedo was going to be around 3 hours- so Diego decided to make a rest stop in the green hills of Santillana del Mar where you won't find beaches but lots of medieval coats of arms. Diego had been for a weekend in college with some friends who had property in the city, so he was a good guide down the cobblestone streets past marmalade, cheese, and anchovy shops to the Colegiata Church-a stunning example of Romanesque art. Reaching the colegiata, the golden afternoon sun glowed on the warm stone and although we didn't go in, we wandered through the arched columns, gazed at the simple carved saints guarding the main entrance, and guessed the meaning of cross carvings all around the worn stone of the courtyard walls.

From the steps of the colegiata the huge coats of arms wrap around corners or stand beween balconies dripping with flowers- Santillana was an aristocratic town and the coat of arms (escudos) proved the wealth and power of the past owners-even today the size and details of the escudos are impressive. The biggest of the big escudos in Santialla belongs to the Casa de los Hombrones (House of the Big men...haha) where two nearly life size soldiers stand guard between the balconies. Diego spent a weekend at this particular house when he was in college-today the house has been converted into a tourist shop, restaurant and terrace-but he says that it was the scariest night he'd ever spent anywhere-heavy wooden stairs, dark brocade curtains, paintings of old owners watching your every move...(read more about it on his website Contraportada here)

Santiallana is for wandering and wondering, imagining a medieval past-a lovely stop before heading into the Picos de Europa and Austurias. (ps...just a few miles from Santillana are the Altamira caves-prehistoric cave paintings- really really wanted to go, but by the time we left Santillana it was too late, on the agenda for next time.)

Santander...one beach, two beach, three beach, four

2011-08-17T12:07:00.004+02:00

After a whirlwind day in culture packed Bilbao (forgot to add that we were serenaded in the Bilboan evening as Arcade Fire's outdoor concert next to the Guggenheim) and a lightening quick sleep, we were on the road again headed east to Santander. The bulk of the plan for Santander was beach, beach, and more beach- we were lucky to finally have some hot and sunny weather as we headed out of Bilbao.

When we arrived to the port of Santander (and probably the cleanest pension I've ever seen) the sun was even brighter than in Bilbao and we were ready for some beach, so we quickly changed, and headed to the sea. Diego had some inside info on Santander via an old friend, and we decided to head to Playa El Puntal on a ferry service that goes back and forth from the peninsula to the city every 20 minutes for just about 3.50 euros round trip.

On the boat ride we had our first view of the elegant coast of the city- dotted with mansions and posh apartments (Banco Santander-the strongest bank in Spain hails from the city, and it's owner is one of the most important bankers in the world) and even a palace- Magdalena Palace where the Spanish kings used to spend their summers at the turn of the century. We decided what property to buy for our return trip (yes, we were already planning to return after about an hour in the city...haha amazing the power of the sun and sand) and arrived to El Puntal after about 10 minutes on the ferry.

El Puntal offers views of the posh city but is the complete opposite-virgin beaches with nothing more than a dock, a little chiringuito where you can get some food, and length after length of sandy, duney, warm beaches. A perfect escape. After five minutes we were sold on Santander and we lingered on the beach until we got one of the last ferrys back to the city around sunset.

Back to the city for dinner we explored the old town-like we'd already seen on the coast the city offers more Victorian gilded elegance and lots of bank headquarters. We ate delicious Cantabrian anchovies in olive and garlic sauce and fresh salpicon (beware the service isn't exactly friendly here-but the food is great) and headed out for some drinks with the local crowd in a plaza where we saw not only the long Spanish summer night, but also a painter set with canvas and all to capture the night, and crazy nightclub advertising-consisting of Arabian costumes, fire torches, bongo drums, and 5 inch heels circling the plaza.

The next morning called for a big breafast at a little bakery-I think we ordered one of everything-and a walk to see the rest of the city. Heading north we passed beach after sandy beach. Santander has San Sebastian beat on beaches- long and sandy with calm deep blue waters from the Cantabrian-you can stay in Santander for a week and never repeat a beach. We decided to stay at El Camello beach, a smaller one with lovely rocks and cliffs and a view to the sea.

A few hours of beach and a small car accident later (no one was hurt) we said see you later to the balconies and beaches of lovely Santander and headed into the green hills of Cantabria.

(Click on links throughout the text for more info)

Bilbao and beyond

2011-08-16T11:56:00.003+02:00

During the short drive from San Sebastian to Bilbao-only about 1 hour- we were hopeful and expectant to see the clouds being left behind us and a possibility for some sunshine. But, the first stop was the Corte Ingles to get a few dry items for the boys who were utterly soaked that morning while cleaning up the campsite. A pair of shoes and a cardigan later we headed to lunch still eyeing the sky nervously. Diego kept enthusiastically saying, "It's not going to rain, it doesn't smell like rain now" we laughed it off.

After lunch we headed towards our goal of the day, the Bilbao Guggenhiem. With the help of some locals we headed toward the river walk and saw the definitive grey metal in the distance. I have to admit that on first arrival driving into the city the place felt a little claustrofobic. Bilbao is an old mining town, so you drive in throught the old town and feel that the city was dug out of the high cliffs that hug the perimeter. Once you hit the river the city changes completely-open and bight with an incredible variety of modern architecture blending in perfectly with the old. The urban planning of the zone is fantastic.

From a bright white Calatrava bridge we arrived to the Guggeinheim's metallic curves that flow gently up, down, and around the structure like the water in the river beside it reflecting the natural light. We headed up and around to the front where we found an old friend crossing the street (it really is a small world), the cutest of cute sculpture- Puppy by Koons, and the sun!

Inside the Guggenhiem (take a virtual tour here!) the art takes second place to the architecture as you see the details of materials, lines, and layers that continuously offer a play on the light, movement, and structure-making the place feel alive. Function is not the purpose, it's simply art. We spent most of the day at the Guggenheim and the river walk-and I fell in love with Bilbao-a modern, creative, and sophisticated city that has rebuilt itself on the pride of its blue collar background and has managed to stay unpretentious. Can't wait to go back for longer than one day.

Raindrops on Pintxos in San Sebastian, Part 2

2011-08-03T19:55:00.005+02:00

The next morning we woke up in San Sebastian to cloudy grey skies and humidity-we hung onto the fact that it was only 8:30 am and the weather report we read only gave 60% chance of precipitation and drove to the Renfe station to pick Laura and Casey up. They were waiting for us and we gave big hugs and lots of bienvenidos on the quick trip back past La Concha and to the campground. As we ate neapolitanas de chocolate an "ocean mist" started blowing in, so we quickly set up their tent and went to shower and start the day. As we finished showering the clouds opened up and we ran for shelter. The camp employees told us, "Eh, it rains and it doesn't rain, you never know" and we debated on heading to Bilbao for the day, but suddenly the rain let up and we decided to go for it and hopefully spend the day at this most famous beach- by the afternoon it was going to stop raining anyway, right?

Playa Ondaretta-the smaller beach next to La Concha

First stop the beach. Walking past rows of blue and white chairs and umbrellas, we read some of the history of La Concha and the city and we played in the waves-getting soaked-looking for shells and sea glass. When the rain started to pour again we were already soaked so we took it with stride and headed into the city.

We we hungry and ready for more pintxos. We tried some new places and found quite a few vegetarian options: goat cheese with tomato marmalade or caramelized onions, Spansh tortillas, tiny Basque peppers, and stuffed mushrooms to name just a few- and tried the Basque white wine, Txakoli, poured from on high like Spanish cider. When finished it was still raining...we were still soaked, so we ate more. Still wet and getting colder-so we bought some sweaters and umbrellas and ate even more. By the time we lost all hope that the rain would let up-hurricane like winds were bending the trees lining the main avenues and we decided maybe we should check on the tents. They were fine so we and all the other campers took refuge in the camp bar drinking beer and mojitos and playing cards until dinner. More pintxos and rain at dinner unfortunatly made our decision to give up on seeing more of San Sebastian. After a long rainy night, we packed up in the pouring rain the next morning, said Agur (Basque for goodbye) and hope to see you again on a sunny day to the city and hightailed it to Bilbao-cold, wet, and tired-but happily, filled with pintxos.

Raindrops on Pintxos in San Sebastian, Part 1

2011-08-03T13:08:00.003+02:00

After flirting with the idea of a roadtrip from Dijon, France (my future home, more details to come) and Santiago de Compostela (my current home)-imagining picnics in vineyards and walled midievil cities in France and beach upon beach and culinary heaven on the Cantabrian coast of Spain-this year's European adventure was cut to the second leg of the original idea-a week long road trip from the mountainous coast of San Sebastian to the green hills of Galicia with Diego, my bestie and her man.

Diego and I set off from Santiago and made it all the way to San Sebastian in a short 8 hours, a pitstop in Burgos to see some friends there for lunch was the perfect break. The drive was a geographical history lesson, passing through the fortress of green hills that seperated Galicia from Castilla for hundreds of years, following the flat golden fields of the Castillian Camino de Santiago, and reaching the jutting spires of green mountains and long tunnels that have seperated the Basque country from the rest of Spain for hundreds of years. Just the drive in itself is enough to understand how the autonomous languages and cultures of Spain have remained seperate and strong-the thought of travel through these parts without national highways, bridges, tunnels, and a car even just 100 years ago is incredible.

Galicia

Basque Country

We arrived to San Sebastian about sunset, and headed up Mount Igueldo to the campsite where we had reserved two nights. A long line of campers, speaking German, Spanish, French, and English, sat waiting to make their reservation. We were happy to have called ahead knowing we would have a place to sleep. After about 40 minutes we got to our campsite set up the tent, and headed back down the mountian into the city.

Without a map, just a small guidebook and the help of a few San Sebastianites we made our way to the old town and the world famous Pintxos-the Basque Country has more Michelin stars than any other part of Spain. Being Monday night, there wasn't much going on in the city, but looking into the pintxo bars the array of beautifully arranged plates overflowing with little Basque style hors d'ourves was making us hungry. After a stroll around we picked a bar called Iskiña-probably the best place we tried while we were there. An animated waiter explained to us how the system worked-ask for a plate, fill the plate with whatever you want, show the waiter the plate when you have finished (to heat up anything that needs to be warm and keep track of your tab) and enjoy. Our favorites were the most amazing perfectly melted Croquetas de Jamon, and the Cod specialties Bacalao Pil Pil-melt in your mouth garlicy goodness (and it must be said I usually don't like Bacalao) and Bacalao a la Vizcayana-delcious tomato peppery sauce with shredded bacalao-warm and delicious. A few cañas and two plates later we headed to see Playa de la Concha where in September Hollywood stars pose at the Donostia Film Festival, and the lights of the city and the mountians lining the beach were sparkling. We headed back up Igueldo for the night, ready to pick up our guests bright* and early at the train station the next morning.

(click on the links in the text for travel info and recipes)

Coca

2011-07-09T13:11:00.000+02:00

Not your average Spanish tortilla dinner, coca is like a Spanish style pizza/foccacia. My lovely friend Ashley spends her summers in Menorca with her husband's family and says coca is an everyday staple in their diet-I'm hoping that one day we can take a summer trip to the island to visit them and try the real thing, but until then the recipe from Dabble magazine (jul-aug.issue pg. 143) is going to have to suffice.

(ps.I'm totally diggin dabble the perfect mix of design, food, and travel in an online magazine.)

The Calixtinus Code

2011-07-08T17:24:00.000+02:00

Yesterday a robbery on the scale of Da Vinci Code craziness was revealed in Santiago. The Codex Calixtinus, a one of the oldest historical books in Europe was declared missing from its vault in the cathedral of Santiago. The priceless 12 century book contians the history St. James and the Camino de Santiago and is revered as Europe's first travel guide.

The cathedral staff think it went missing on Sunday afternoon but didn't publish the news until yesterday after searching long and hard throughout the cathedral. It's an unbelievable story, these mysteries really happen and so close to home? Incredible. It will be interesting to finally find out what happened and where the codex is...but until then Dan Brown get your pen ready. Read more here.

Cies!

2011-06-27T14:16:00.001+02:00

Summer is here! And so is the end of the academic year! The academy celebrated with an incredible día de convivencia laboral on the sea.

Leaving from the port of Vigo we headed to the Cies islands where we anchored and either swam to shore (a few brave souls) or dove off the boat and swam in the "deep end" until the dingy came to take us ashore (my diving was more a cannonball-never have been able to dive!)

After, lunch was served aboard-jumbo shrimp, Galician empanada, various savoury pastries, and crab- and we headed to Portonovo where our journey ended, but not before anchoring again with a few more dives and some more swimming.

(photos courtesy of Niki T. and Ruth, merci ladies!)

Hemingway

2011-06-19T14:13:00.000+02:00

Next time we're in Madrid maybe we'll take some detours to follow this Hemingway route via the New York Times (minus the bullfights). Time to dust off For Whom the Bell Tolls from the bookshelf for some summer reading.

Fudgesicles!

2011-06-12T20:59:00.000+02:00

My favorite (cold) summer snack! And so easy to make-see the recipe here!

(thanks smitten kitchen)

Lighting

2011-06-11T12:28:00.000+02:00

Add this chandelier to my dream house wish list.

(via Elle Decor and From Me to You)

bird's eye view...

2011-06-10T14:19:00.000+02:00

Incredible isn't it? Tulip fields in Holland!

más Madrid

2011-06-08T13:14:00.001+02:00

We took a quick trip to Madrid to start the process for Diego's residency visa last week-step one is complete, two more to go! The rest of the trip we relaxed on terraces with tinto de veranos, window shopped in Chueca and Fuencarral, enjoyed PhotoEspaña exhibits, and took an afternoon stroll at the Real Jardin Botánico.

Easy Tinto de Verano:

1 (3 1/4 cup) bottle red wine (make it a cheap one)

2 liters lime flavored seltzer water

2 cups sugar

4 slices oranges (to garnish)

Mickey D's

2011-06-07T22:35:00.000+02:00

Isn't it funny how McDonalds changes the menu to fit cultures? Now serving toast with tomato and olive oil, a Spanish classic.

vegdecor

2011-05-27T20:16:00.000+02:00

hehe...soo cute and delicious. See more at the kitchn.

summertime rafts...

2011-05-24T23:54:00.002+02:00

This looks just like where I spent all my summers as a kid in Michigan...in the middle of the lake on the old wooden raft. And these clothes look just like how I want to spend this summer. See more dreamy summer looks at Hound.

Así pase mis veranos de niña en Michigan, flotando en una plataforma vieja medio del lago. Así quiero pasar mi verano nuevo, en ropa tan sencilla. Ver más en Hound.

(via Oh Joy)

Balenciaga

2011-05-23T10:26:00.000+02:00

Next time you're in Spain, don't miss the Balenciaga museum in his hometown, Getaria, in the Vasque Country.

No pierdes el museo de Balenciaga que abre en junio en Getaria.

Grassroots Spain

2011-05-18T23:35:00.002+02:00

A new movement for change has taken over the main squares all over Spain, a grassroots movement called 15M, the 15th of May, that surprised many when last Sunday thousands joined together to call for a new vote, a new politics in Spain not tied to either of the two major political parties, who month after month since the crisis began have shown themselves to be the same talk in different colors. The Spanish are tired of high unempolyment, poor pensions, and a youth with much preparation and few possibilities, and they are taking it to the street until the local and regional elections on Sunday, where they hope people will vote for a new party, a new voice in democracy. Change is in the air, and it's so inspiring to see people really taking a stand. Check out CNN's report here and more from El País in Spanish, and here, plus incredible photos here and all over Spain here.

Tapeando

2011-05-14T11:29:00.002+02:00

We started Santiagoetapas yesterday, and discovered this gem of the city O Curro da Parra a teeny tiny stone hallway with a little upstairs dining area, great design (I love the lighting) and delicious tapas : Galician Bloody Mary with pimentos de padron and cockels andMussels with Creamy Bacon. We'll go next time your in town.

strappystrap

2011-05-13T11:14:00.000+02:00

Saw these at Zara on the way home from work...and I really really want them.

Family Vacation

2011-05-10T12:34:00.003+02:00

Who said families with small children can't travel around the world?? This family is so inspiring (click to see more)! Check out their blog: If It Takes a Whole Life.

¿Quién dice que no se puede viajar con peques? Esta familia te inspirará. Y no pierdes su blog: If It Takes a Whole Life.

(This and more travel inspiration care of: Pret-a-Voyager.)

(Graciñas:Pret-a-Voyager)

Curto e Tapas

2011-05-09T12:12:00.001+02:00

On the list of things to do in Santiago this week...Curtocircuito: Short film festival. Hoping to catch a showing in the street and some Santiago(é)tapas...I'm determined to fill up a tapas passport this year!

2

2011-05-02T00:00:00.000+02:00

two wonderful years together...here's to many many more.

te quiero.

Take a side.

2011-04-21T14:19:00.006+02:00

Last night was the second of four Real Madrid vs. Barcelona FC games in one month-a historic event that hasn't happened since the beginning of the 1900's. People are going nuts. Barcelona has been the stronger team since I arrived nearly three years ago, but last night Madrid won the Copa del Rey (King's Cup) against Barcelona-and suddenly madrilistas were coming out of the woodwork in Santiago-proudly displaying their pride on jackets and scarves and with honking horns and fireworks. So, the million dollar question in Spain, posed by everyone including children 5 or 6 years old who have already decided their loyalty: "Who's your team?"

I have to admit, that I don't really completely understand having to make the choice as I'm not Spanish, nor am I a big sports fan, but being here three years it is time to draw the line-most three year olds have already decided which team they belong to. So here's where you come in, obviously, coming from the states our soccer culture is lacking so we can't choose on best team ability or strategy...so let's choose based soley on the superficial-their looks, but of course!

Barcelona Football Club:

Coach: Josep Guardiola-Catalan/Spanish-he can do no wrong being a humble, well spoken, well dressed chap.

Star player: Leonel Messi-Argentinian-nominated best player in the world two years in a row. He's the bee's knees on the field.

Tabloid star: Gerard Pique-Catalan/Spanish (Shakira left her man after 10 years when she met Pique at the World Cup last summer...wakawaka!)

Real Madrid:

Coach: Jose Mourinho- Portuguese-and full of fire and passion. He makes a headline speaking or not speaking.

Star player: Iker Casillas-Spanish-Saint Iker, he's untouchable in Spain-European Championship, World Cup, nuf said.

Tabloid Star: Christiano Ronaldo-Portuguese (he fills tabloid magazines with his six pack and bling, and Armani ads, but he's also been the best player in the world and the rivalry between Leo Messi and Ronaldo is the stuff Hollywood is made of.)

So time to take a side...Real Madrid or Barcelona??

Sushi redone

2011-04-04T08:32:00.001+02:00

I want to take burrito sushi to a party now!! And for desert have nutella makis!!

La comida perfecta para una fiesta! Burrito sushi! Y nutella makis para el postre!

From the Kitchn via No Face Plate and El Pais Semanal.

Back to the future...

2011-04-02T11:13:00.008+02:00

These bathrooms designed by Spaniard Jaime Hayon are soo cool. So liquid and metalic-mercurial- like that amazing sculpture at the Miro museum. I would love to have a bathroom like this, wouldn't you? I found Hayon's bathrooms at the ever inspiring Spanish decor blog Vintage & Chic, but check out more of Hayon's design at his project website- it's futuristic art deco!

Los baños diseñados por Jaime Hayon son increíbles. Tan liquidos y metalicos-como mercurio-y la escultura en al museo de miro. Me encantaría tener un baño asi, ¿te gustan?. Encontré los baños en el blog Vintage & Chic, pero hay que ver mas de los diseños de Hayon en su página web-¡me encantan!

A little bit of jazz...

2011-04-01T15:02:00.005+02:00

Have you heard of or seen Chico and Rita? It's on my list of things to do. An animated film for adults about jazz, love, and revolution made by the impecable Spanish team: director Fernando Trueba-famous for Oscar winner Belle Epoch-also on my to see list, and designer Javier Mariscall-famous for the Barcelona Olympic's design. Add it to your list!

Chico & Rita - Tráiler. Trueba y Mariscal animados por cine365

¿Ya habéis visto Chico y Rita? La tengo pendiente en mi lista de pelis para ver. Es una película animada para adultos hecho por el equipo español: Fernando Trueba-director famoso por Belle Epoch, y el diseñador Javier Mariscall-famoso por sus diseños en las olimpiadas de Barcelona.

A quick escape...Braga

2011-03-24T23:29:00.007+01:00

Portugal gets lovelier with every visit...

Portugal es más bonito en cada visita...

A close escape to a different world...

Una escapada cerca a otro mundo...

Where the vowels are closed, and the s's are sharp...

donde los vocales están cerradas, y la s aguda...

And the buildings shine with colorful tiles, or wobble with years of debt...

Y los edificios brillan con azulejos de colores, o tiemblan con las deudas de los años...

Braga, a small city, celebrates a wealth of architechtural diversity in the Main plaza-cupulas, peaks, ans midieval towers.

Braga, una ciudad pequeña, vie una diversidad de architectura en su plaza principal-cupulas, picos, y torres medievales.

And then there is the cafe...A Brasileira, a Portuguese classic, serving the famous strong portuguese coffee-although be warned in the winter Braga is virtually emply after 8 pm-enjoy a coffee in the morning or afternoon.

Y luego, el café...A Brasileira, un clásico portuguese que sirve el famosos y fuerte cafe portuguese-con un aviso-disfrútalo por la mañana o la tarde, por lo menos en el invierno Braga está vacia después de la 8.

And after a coffee wander through a quirky Portuguese bookstore. Porto sets the standard, but Portuguese bookshops are meant to spend hours and hours in.

Después del café, pasa por una librería. Oporto se lleva la palma, pero las librerías portuguesas son para perderse.

And admire the cute vintage Portuguese "sabonete"-they smell so nice too.

Y no pierdes el vintage "sabonete" portuguese-huele rico.

And even if it's only for a day and maybe finidng a restaurant is near impossible, an hour and half escape from home is well worth it.

Y aunque solo sea un día, o encontrar un restaurante es casi imposible, escapar a solo una hora y media de casa vale la pena.

Monte Pedroso

2011-03-23T23:31:00.007+01:00

I'm still discovering new places in Santiago. This weekend Diego took me to Monte Pedroso a park on a mountain with amazing views of the city and lots of trails to hike. The drive up the mountian was a bit scary...next time we'll hike, but we watched the last winter sunset while we up there...lovely!

Sigo conociendo lugares nuevos en Santiago. Esta semana Diego me llevo a Monte Pedroso un parque en una montaña con vistas inpresionantes de la ciudad y sendas para hacer trekking. Conducir hasta el cima me dio un poco de miedo, pero vimos la última puesta de sol del invierno mientras estuvimos allí...¡Bellisima!

Think Pink?

2011-03-19T17:30:00.005+01:00

We're going to a friend's wedding (in a castle!!) the second weekend in April! Time's short and I'm on the hunt for a dress. I want something non-black...it's spring! I haven't seen much at the local shops so headed to the Corte Ingles and inspired by Audrey in Breakfast at Tiffany's thought maybe I can pull off this pink dress...opinions please!!

Vamos a la boda de una amiga (en un castillo!!) la segunda semana de abril. Se me está acabando el tiempo y estoy en busca del vestido. Quiero algo que no sea negro...estamos en la primavera! No he visto mucho en las tiendas de siempre y me fui hoy al Corte Inglés. Inspirada en Audrey en Desayuno con diamantes, me compre un vestido fucsia ...me lo quedo??

Dali and Disney

2011-03-11T15:36:00.006+01:00

In case you haven't seen this yet...watch it. What a dreamy way to start the weekend. Read more about it here.

ps...new posts next week-these last few weeks have been uber busy...

* * *

Por si todavía no lo habíais visto...hoy os toca. Una manera soñadora de empezar el fin de semana.

pd: vuelvo la semana que viene con unos posts nuevos-he tenido unas semanitas ocupadisimas...

to Braga...

2011-03-03T16:13:00.004+01:00

Weekend roadtrip to Braga, Portugal...coming soon!!

* * *

Fin de semana en Braga, Portugal...¡¡pronto!!

Spanish Jersey Shore

2011-03-01T12:10:00.004+01:00

I have to admit, I've never actually watched an episode of Jersey Shore and don't really know anything about it except for the commercials they show on Spanish MTV (and yes, pretty much all the ridiculous programming from the states makes it over here dubbed-Sweet 16, Pimp My Ride, Plain Jane, Made...etc-why do I know this???!!!). In any case, I can say that I know Princesas de Barrio (Spain's version of Jersey Shore). A docu-show about the exciting lives of 4 working class ladies with visits to the mercadillo, salon, wedding, and Camela concerts included. If you know some Spanish, click here-you'll flipar with their accent-or maybe just with their hair.

La verdad es que nunca he visto un capítulo de Jersey Shore y no sé mucho más de lo que se puede entender de un anuncio en MTV España (y para que lo sepas-toda la programación rara que hay en MTV llega a todos lados del mundo...). De todos casos, si sé algo de Princesas de Barrio-el nuevo docu-show de la Sexta que sigue las vidas de cuatro mujeres poligoneras en sus visitas al mercadillo, a la pelu, a bodas, y a conciertos. Conocerás una cara nueva de España aquí.

Olive pits...

2011-02-23T13:29:00.007+01:00

I want one of these! Not ony for pistachios and olives...but a big one for eating shrimp! What a perfect place to put those shrimp heads. Why didn't I think of this?

Ps: Are you brave enough to eat the shrimp head? They say it's the best part...

* * *

¡Quiero uno de estos! No solo para los pistachos y aceitunas, pero uno grande para comer gambas también...el sitio perfecto para todas las cabezas. ¿Porqué nunca había pensado en esto?

Pd: ¿Te atreves a comer la cabeza de gamba? dicen que es la parte más rica...

(via Kitchn)

beige rebajas

2011-02-23T12:09:00.001+01:00

Round one of some of my rebajas compras-with some silly pics...when life gives you bad lighting play with the flash and the mirror ;)

I love the cut and matierials of this shirt from Zara. Comfy and modern with the transparent bit on the back.

And my favorite new necklace from Misako. The little people are too cute...they move and are copper!

Unas de mis compras de las rebajas. Unas fotos locas jugando con la luz y los espejos.

Me encanta el corte y la mezcla de telas en la camisa de Zara. Es cómoda y moderna con el toque transparente en la espalda. Y este en mi nuevo collar preferido de Misako. Las personitas son monísimas-se mueven y son de cobre!

Winter meals-Spanish style

2011-02-22T12:11:00.001+01:00

February tends to bring a teaser week of sun in the Galican winter and lots of pig products in the shop windows. It's time to get out the food that was salted and cured in the yearly matanza. All year ears (orejas) and snouts (morros) are cooked and seasoned as a popular tapa-talk to most people and they'll tell you it's a hate it or love it relationship. Jamon, lomo, and chorizos are also prepared in this season and enjoyed year round.

But some of the more particular parts are specially prepared and enjoyed in February and March. The head and cheek (cacheira) is cooked with caldo the famous Galician soup made with pork and local veggies, sometimes a special green called grelos- most similar to collard greens and usually prepared by boiling and serving with pork. If you do visit Spain in the winter don't pass up the opportunity to try it-most everyone loves caldo and cocido, especially on a cold rainy day. Another important product of the moment-key to making caldo/cocido is unto a special smoked pig lard found around the pig's intestines. The markets are filled with these products in February and most Galician families are around a hot pot of caldo on to warm up or detox after a long night of Carnival fun.

All over Spain Callos are an important part of the winter menu. Callos is a stew made with the pig's stomach and garbanzo beans. Sometimes pigs feet are included. To American ears these foods may sound disgusting, but you have to respect the traditions and you can't judge until you have tried it. I never thought I'd even try blood sausage, but in Burgos this summer I gave it a try and it was actually delicious!

One last thing-the typical Galician dessert of the season is called "filloa", Galician for crepe. Light and sugary they are my favorite part of the Carnival meal.

Another famous filloa is the "filloa de sangre" specially prepared with the fresh blood from the pig-Diego tells me stories about his grandmother's delicious filloas de sangre, but you can only get these in certain parts of Galicia usually only during the matanza, they are not a staple on the daily menu. One last sweet-"orellas" ears made from fried dough-like American elephant ears. Yum!

One last note-it's so trendy now to be local and organic, and you've got to respect that these foods are all local and served in season-and there was no trend to follow or politic behind them, simply respecting the age old traditions. Give some of these a try if you come over!

summertime...

2011-02-21T18:30:00.000+01:00

On my wish list for summer: round tortoise shell wayfarers, cute Dr.Schollsy clogs from Zara, and a perfect day on a palm tree lined beach.

Ps...I think the last time I was as sick as I have been over the past few days was when I was on the beach in Venezuela drinking Gatorade instead of caipiriñas and eating crackers instead of empanadas. I'm hoping the next time I'm on the beach I'll be on either at an Italian castle with friends on the Mediterranean or on Fuerteventura...wearing all of the above.

Pss...for your enjoyment coming soon to Jamonlandia: it's pig head and filloa season in Galicia...Carnival is just around the corner!! And booo...it's the end of rebajas-time for a summary of my reduced price treasures!

* * *

En mi lista para el verano: gafas de sol wayfarer redondos, sandalias retros de Zara, y un día soleado en una playa con palmeras.

Pd...creo que la última ve que estuve tan enferma como ahora, estaba en una playa tropical en Venezuela tomando Gatorade en vez de caipiriñas y crackers en vez de emapanadas. Espero que la próxima playa que veo este o en Italia con unos amigos o en Fuerteventura...llevando todo lo que ves ahí arriba.

Pdd...solo para ti próximamente en Jamonlandia: es la temporada de cabeza de cerdo y filloas-Carnaval esta por venir! Y lastima...es el final de las rebajas-lo cual merece un resumen de todos mis gangas!

Parabens!

2011-02-19T12:54:00.004+01:00

Happy birthday bestie!! Can you believe we've been friends for almost a quarter of a century?? That explains why even with an ocean apart we still end up buying the same clothes, jeje...

Here's to a wonderful birthday with many, many more wonderful memories (and cupcakes) to come in the new year!! besitos!!

Feliz cumple a mi mejor amiga!! Es increíble que llevamos casi un cuarto de siglo de amigas! Eso explica por que hasta con un océano de separación seguimos comprando la misma ropa, jeje...

Te deseo un cumpleaños muy feliz con muchos muchos bonitos recuerdos (y cupcakes) en este nuevo año!! besitos!

study abroad...

2011-02-17T21:37:00.005+01:00

EF - Live The Language - Barcelona from Albin Holmqvist on Vimeo.

Ahhh...this brings back sooo many memories of being a college kids and dreaming of living abroad...who's have imagined my dream would come true?? Such an amazing ad campaign by EF tours, and I'm proud to say the Spain tour my Best teaching friend and I took 10 great high schoolers on was with them! Well worth it! Check out all the cities...

Tantos recuerdos de soñar de España en la uni...y ahora el sueño hecho realidad! Una campaña genial para estudios en el extranjero de EF tours-también reconocidos por ser la compañía que usamos mi amiga y yo para llevar a 10 gran alumnos del instituto a España! Valió la pena!

(via Black Eiffel)

Love

2011-02-14T16:00:00.001+01:00

Happy valentine's day. Hope it's wonderful! Aren't my tulips lovely?

Feliz día de san valentine. Espero que sea maravilloso. Son preciosos mis tulipanes, ¿no?

Write? Join!

2011-02-13T11:32:00.004+01:00

Hey guys! Diego has been busy starting up a new online journal dedicated to all things literary in Spanish, Galician, and English. We are looking for contributors in any way: fiction, commentary, critique, photography-anything that inspires you. Little by little I'm getting the majority of the content translated to English, as for now most is published in Spanish or Galician, but we'd love to have an American voice too! I know you are talented writers and artists with opinions and ideas...so check out the mission statement and website link below, join on facebook here, and send us your work!!

* * *

Contraportada is an online magazine (www.contraportada.com.es) dedicated to new journalism, fiction, criticism, and commentary inspired by the great American periodical magazines. The goal of Contraportada is to publish truthful, honest, and independent journalism whose focus is on the international reader, especially the reader looking for something that current media isn’t providing. Contraportada wants to give a voice to writers who love writing but can’t find a place to write, to people interested in a project where the most important thing is the writer and the text, or to anyone who has something to say.

As an internet magazine Contraportada will make the most of the elegance of the written word and the technology of audiovisual communication, and there will be no limit on freedom of expression-as long as it’s not used at for gratuitous insults. Contraportada wants to revive the social function of journalism as a service of and for the citizen and not for economic interests o politics.

With that in mind, Contraportada is starting as a small project. To put it simply, because we haven’t got money we are looking for people who are interested in being a part of our team of independent non-paid collaborators. We need writers in any language, designers, artists, or whatever else you might propose to make the project dynamic.

Contraportada hopes to grow so that in the near future we will be able to recognize the work of our team and collaborators by paying for their involvement.

We know better than anyone that journalism costs money, even writers need to eat, so we hope that interested individuals, organizations and public or private institutions might see the need and public interest in the journalism found at Contraportada and might contribute, as they may, to help us. From the start any investment will be destined first and foremost to pay our collaborators for their work and involvement.

You are invited to be a part of the project, because Contraportada will be what you want it to be.

To become a part of Contraportada send your text, article, commentary, or critique to:

redaccion@contraportada.com.es

For more information, questions, suggestions, or if you would like to advertise on Contraportada, please send an e-mail to:

info@contraportada.com.es

PB cups

2011-02-13T07:43:00.000+01:00

Oh man, have to post these so I don't forget about making them sometime (this blog is turning into my online recipe file). They look soo easy, and any American abroad can tell you that peanut butter anything is greatly missed. Speaking of peanute butter, I can only find one brand here, Capitán Mani, and I do like it. Anyone else out there found or tried any other brands? Ohh and where the recipe calls for graham crackers, just use digestive cookies, and I'd probably change the muffin tin size to baby size, don't want to get too crazy.

Tengo que bloggear estos para no olvidar de hacerlos en algún momento (poco a poco esto se está convirtiendo en mi archivo de recetas). Pero, bueno. Parecen super fáciles de hacer-solo cambiaría el tamaño del recipiente a uno más pequeño. Cualquier americano fuera de casa puede decirte como nos extrañamos el "peanut butter". Solo encuentro una marca por estos lados, Capitán Mani, y me gusta. ¿Alguien fuera de USA a encontrado otra marca buena? Y una cosita más, donde la receta usa "graham crackers", hay que sustituir unas galletas digestive.

(Thank you Design*Sponge. Gracias D*Sponge)

Lavendar Patio

2011-02-12T08:09:00.001+01:00

This must smell so nice on a summer evening. And that vine covered wall...I love it.

Ps...some of the trees are already flowering here!

Este tiene que oler increíble en una noche de verano. Y esa pared cubierta...me encanta.

Pd...¡ya están floreciendo algunos arboles por aquí!

(via Design*Sponge)

Skylights

2011-02-11T19:57:00.003+01:00

The first time I went to Diego's house I was surprised by how many skylights there were. His room and the entire top floor of the house didn't have windows but skylights. Since then I've noticed they are everywhere, a way to use all the space possible wisely. No dark attics here. Every now and then Diego and I dream about fixing up our apartment...I imagine a bathroom something like this upstairs. Aren't the skylights pretty?

La primera ve que vi la casa de Diego me sorprendió la cantidad de tragaluces que habían. Toda la última planta tenía tragaluces en vez de ventanas. Desde entonces me he dado cuenta que están por todos lados, una manera de usar bien todo el espacio. No hay áticos oscuros aquí. De vez en cuando Diego y yo soñamos de reformar nuestro piso...y imagino un baño comos este en la segunda planta. Son ideales los tragaluces, ¿verdad?

(Thanks Cup of Joe)

Indie Princess

2011-02-08T09:58:00.002+01:00

Some music for the day, the Spanish version of all those breathy frenchy ladies. The diosa of Spanish indie-Christina Rosenvinge. Enjoy!

Algo de música para empezar el día, la versión española de todas esas frencesas sin aliento. La diosa del indie español, Christina Rosenvinge. Disfrútalo!

Bagels!

2011-02-07T12:32:00.004+01:00

I know, it seems like all I talk about is food but Sunday evenings has turned into baking time for two reasons: it keeps the house warm and is delicious. Last nights plan-breakfast baking. Chocolate muffins-no real art there. They were so easy and turned out well. But, the big challenge was bagels. You can't find them in Santiago and everynow and then on a rushed morning, picking one up instead of a croissant (even though I do love a croissant!) sounds ideal. Sooo...I got on Internet and found the easiest recipe and while chatting with my mom made some lovely little bagels. I even got crazy and put some salt and cheese on a few. They were actually not that difficult...and well worth the time and well enjoyed as breakfast this morning. I feel like a pro now.

Ya lo sé, parece que siempre estoy hablando de comida pero las tardes de los domingos se han convertido en noches de hornear-por dos razones: mantiene un calorcito en la casa y comimos algo delicioso. Anoche decidí hacer cosas para desayunar. Empecé con muffins de chocolate-nada de manjar es eso. Me salieron muy fácil y buenos. Pero el reto de la tarde era hacer unos bagels. Aquí en Santiago no los encuentro y de vez en cuando en una mañana de prisa me gustaría tener la opción de o croissant o bagel. Entonces...me metí en Internet, encontré la receta más fácil y mientras hablé con mi mamá por teléfono hice unos bagels deliciosos! Hasta experimenté y añadí sal y queso en algunos. La verdad es que no son tan difíciles de hacer como había pensado, y vale la pena invertir el tiempo en hacerlos. Desayuné rico esta mañana, y me siento todo una profesional.

Fresh

2011-02-02T23:08:00.009+01:00

Hey snowbirds...hope the snowday in the states has been restful and warm and creative and productive inside your cozy homes. I've been working...but before lunch, since it was a beautiful day here, I took a walk through the Praza de Abastos to buy an avocado for lunch and dinner. The market was buzzing today, surprising to me as usually it's busy Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday mornings. The fish stalls were packed and everything looked so bright and fresh...and strangely enough I even caught myself thinking..."yummmm"!Anyway, I really wanted to finally share this funny milk machine. I guess getting the cow to the city is difficult, so instead, for 30 cents you can get a reusable class glass milk bottle to fill with a liter of fresh dairy milk for 1 euro. It was closed today...but I'm thinking maybe Friday we can take the night off and wake up early Saturday morning to try it out. Have you ever seen one of these?

Also, I know Mr. Groundhog Phil didn't see his shadow (good news for you blizzard folk) and supposedly winter will be shorter...and in Spain legend of the Candelaria holds that if it is sunny on Febeuary 2, winter will be longer (bad news for us and our electric bill). But I think the French get it better than all of us celebrating today with a crepe party! Now you know what to make for dinner!

****

Hola guapas...espero que las de EEUU esteís pasando un día de nieve genial productivas creativas, tranquilas, y calientitas en casita. Yo trabajé todo el día, pero pasé por la Praza de Abastos antes de comer para aprovechar del solazo que hacía y comprar un aguacate. El mercado tenía bastante vida hoy, me sorprendió porque los días con más gente son los martes, jueves, y sábados. Los vendedores de pescado y mariscos tenían muchísimo producto y todo tan fresco y bonito que hasta me encontré a mi misma pensando en lo rico que se veía todo!

Pero, lo que realmente quería enseñaros es la graciosa máquina de leche. Me supongo que traer una vaca a la ciudad podría ser difícil, entonces pagando 30 centimos compras una botella de vidrio y por un euro la llenas con leche fresca de la máquina. Hoy estaba cerrada, pero igual podemos levantarnos para aprovechar el mercado el sábado. ¿Habíais visto una de estas máquinas alguna vez?

También, sé que Sr. Marmota Phil vio su sombra por lo cual significa que el invierno americano durará poco (suerte para vosotras!), y también otra leyenda español de la Candelaría dice que un día de sol el 2 de febrero es un invierno largo (malo para nosotros), pero lo mejor de todos en lo que celebran los franceses hoy...día de la crepe! Ya sabéis lo que hay que cenar hoy...

Rebajando

2011-01-29T21:37:00.005+01:00

Wowsers! Didn't plan on going to rebajas today, but as Diego and I were strolling through town we stopped into Bershka to check on some boots I'd seen last week...and today they were even cheaper! They are both leather...and I only spent 40 euros (over 100 euros discounted)....should I keep them?

10 euros...metal detail is removable.

¡Guauuuu! No tenía pensado ir a las rebajas hoy, pero mientras caminábamos por la ciudad entramos en Bershka para mirar unas botas que había visto hace una semana...y hoy las encontré por menos todavía. ¡¡Gangazooooooo!! Los dos pares son de piel...y en total solo me costaron 40 euros (más de 100 euros descontado)...¿me las quedo?

Expats en español

2011-01-27T21:32:00.008+01:00

Where are all the American expats in Spain? I've found some nice blogs lately about expats in Paris like: Lost in Cheeseland and Making Magique...but where are the blogs showing how lovely expat life is here in Spain? I'm on it...

Donde están los inmigrantes americanos en España? He encontrado algunos blogs bonitos de la vida Parisina-Lost in Cheeseland y Making Magique...pero ¿dónde están los blogs acerca de la vida encatadora aquí en España? Estoy en ello...

UPDATE:

I've been googling around and found two fab ladies living in Spain: La tortuga viajera-a travel and food blog, and Barcelona Bites-another foodie blog. Check them out!

Después de googlear un poco encontré los blogs de dos chicas fabulosas viviendo en España: La tortuga viajera-un blog dedicado a comer y viajar por España, y Barcelona Bites-otro blog gastronómico. Visítelos!

Drums, Chefs, Soldiers

2011-01-26T13:14:00.007+01:00

Last week I was surprised by the annual Tamborrada in San Sebastian. Every January 20th the people of the city celebrate with a day and night full of beating drums. Parades fill the streets...and beating drums. It's not the first extremely noisy party I've heard about in Spain-Las Fallas in Valencia are said to drive you mad with the sounds of firecrakers going off all day for a week-but it is the first party where parades of people dressed like chefs fill the street! Basque country is famous for its food and La Tamborrada is a good opportunity to pay respect-from what I saw on the news if you're not beating drums on the street you're probably eating at the competitions that the many culinary clubs of the city host.

La Tamborrada. de san sebastien

Me sorprendió la semana pasada la fiesta de La Tamborrada que se celebran el 20 de enero todos los años en San Sebastián. Ese día los ciudadanos llenan las calles con el ruido del tambor para el día de San Sebastián-¡todos dando al tambor! No es la primera fiesta ruidosa de España-Las fallas en Valencia también tiene fama por el ruido incesante de petardos todo el día y toda la nocho durante una semana-pero La Tamborrada es la primera fiesta donde he visto desfiles de chefs llenando las calles. El país vasco es famoso por su cocina y la tamborrada es buena oportunidad para comprobarlo-si no estás con el tambor en la calle, probablemente estarás en una de las cenas de los concursos de sus sociedades gastronómicas.

Cervecita

2011-01-22T12:31:00.004+01:00

Ha! In Spain beer is good for you! A good excuse to have another cañita.

Ja! En España la cerveza te hace bien! Buena escusa para tomar otra cañita.

(via the Telegraph, via The food section, via Cup of Joe)

new pillows

2011-01-21T16:04:00.003+01:00

I finally made pillow covers with this bright print from Ikea (with the help of my mother-in-law, thanks!). They make the couch come alive...and are so comfy!

Por fin hice las fundas de cojín con este estampado colorido de Ikea (con la ayuda de mi suegra, gracias!). ¡Dan mucha vida al sofa...y son comodísimos!

Bimba & Lola

2011-01-20T11:23:00.000+01:00

Another Spanish gem. Bimba & Lola is a shop that specializes in accessories-high quality bags-shoes-jewelry. The prices are little beyond my price range...but maybe in rebajas it's worth investing...

Otra joya española. Bimba & Lola es una tienda especializada en los complementos de buena calidad-bolsos, zapatos, bisutería. Los precios son un poco altos para mi cartera, pero quizás las rebajas serán un buen momento para invertir...

By the ponte

2011-01-19T11:07:00.002+01:00

We had our work holiday party last weekend. It was fun to see everyone all dressed up and the food was soooooo good: zamburiñas (small scallops from Galicia), Norwegian lobster, Monkfish, and the biggest steaks ever. And the setting in Ponte Maceira-a tiny village next to a rushing river and framed with a medieval bridge-was ideal!!

Celebramos la cena de navidad del trabajo el fin de pasado. Me encantó ver a todo el mundo vestido de noche y la comida estuvo buenísima: zamburiñas, cigalas, rape, y los chuletones más grandes del mundo. Y el entorno, Ponte Maceira-un pequeño pueble al lado de un río con un puente medieval-era ideal.

Iris

2011-01-18T12:09:00.001+01:00

I love how these irises look all packed together.

Me encantan estos iris tan juntitos.

(Vintage & Chic)

In the mailbox...

2011-01-17T07:45:00.000+01:00

I'm anxious to get my first Spanish Elle in the mailbox! Hope it arrives this week! I had never seen Elle UK...but via Miss at the Playa it looks pretty awesome too. Maybe next time one of my friends goes back on holiday I'll see if I can get one...and a Crunchie. Yummm.

Tengo muchas ganas de recibir mi primer Elle España en el buzón de casa! Espero que llegue esta semana! Nunca había vista Elle Reino Unido, pero via Miss at the Playa tiene una pinta buenísima también. Quizás la próxima vez una amiga vuelva a su tierra pediré el favor de traerme una...y un Crunchie. ñamñam.

Royal Ringtone

2011-01-16T11:23:00.000+01:00

The king's phone rang while he was in a meeting this week...and the ring tone is a baby laughing...

Sonó el movil del rey an una reunion oficial esta semana...y su politono es la risa de un niño...

Carnevale

2011-01-15T14:43:00.003+01:00

Maybe this year we'll celebrate carnival in Venice....

Quizás este año celebramos carnaval en Venecia...

TinTin

2011-01-15T12:02:00.000+01:00

Wow... awesome tin can makeover.

Increíble...una genalidad de lata reciclada.

Cidade da Cultura

2011-01-14T11:00:00.000+01:00

I've been watching this progress on a hill across from my house for the last 2 and half years (Santiago has been waiting for at least 10 years) and finally the Cidade de Cultura is pen, officially inaugurated by Prince Felipe this week. Hope to go visit it soon and see if being there convinces me that I like it...from what I've seen and read I'm not it's biggest fan.

Llevo 2 años y medio viendo el progreso de la construcción en una colina enfrente de mi casa (Santiago lleva por lo menos 10 años de espera), y por fin la Cidade da Cultra está abierto al público, oficialmente inaugurado por el príncipe esta semana. Espero ir a visitar pronto para ver si al estar de me gusta más-porque por lo que he visto y leído hasta ahora, la verdad es que no soy muy fan.

It's that white crest in the upper left part fo the photo. Es la curva blanca en pa larte superior de la foto a la izquierda.

Del Maguey

2011-01-14T09:10:00.002+01:00

Tequila has a bad rap. I can attest to it sometimes being more than one can handle. But I can also say that when drunk responsibly it's flavor is unbeatable. I've never had mezcal, but this one-featured in a list of ten best wines of 2010...yes wines-looks like a good place to start. Pretty bottle. Pretty story. Ekkk....and pretty price tag. Maybe one slowly savored classy shot.

...

If its sibling mezcals are more robust, this one wears ballet slippers - full of floral high tones, peaches, pepper and ginger. It is, frankly, a shame to do anything but sip the Albarradas slowly, perhaps with a plate of white-fleshed ceviche on the side.

Read more.

El tequila tiene mala fama. Yo soy la primera que te puede decir que a veces resulta ser más de lo que uno puede aguantar. Pero también puedo contar que cuando lo bebes responsablemente su sabor es único. Nunca tomé el mezcal, pero este que incluyeron en una lista de los 10 mejores vinos del 2010-si los mejores vinos- parece ser un buen comienzo. Una botella bonita. Una historia bonita. Ayyy....y un precio bonito...quizás solo un chupito despacio, saboreado, y con clase.

Reading Rainbow-Spanish Style

2011-01-13T08:00:00.000+01:00

Who didn't love Reading Rainbow as a kid? It was the best show ever. While much of Spanish and International television is dumbing down (Telecinco, a sensationalist channel that hosts shows like Sálvame and Big Brother, recently bought CNN+, SPain's CNN, to and replaced the programming with 24 hour covereage of the Big Brother house), Television Española, the national channel, does give hope that perhaps TV isn't humanities demise. Last year they got rid of commercials and thier cultural shows like Version Española and historical series like Cuéntame and Amar en Tiempos Revueltos are top notch. But lately Diego and I have been tuning into channel 2-TVE's cultural channel. Our favorite show is a modern version of Reading Rainbow-Página 2- dedicated to lovers of literature it features the best books of the week, a conversation with an author (including a persoanal reading of his/her text), a film review (based on a book), and a kid's section where kids choose books and talk about them. Best programming out there. Click here to see more.

¿A quién no le gustaba Reading Rainbow de niño? Era el mejor programa del mundo. Mientras gran parte de la programación en la televisión de España y el resto del mundo se está idiotizando(Telecinco, un canal sensacionalista, que presenta programas como Sálvame y Gran Hermano, compro CNN+ para reemplazarlo con un canal dedicado 24 horas al día a la casa de Gran Hermano), Televisión Española, el canal nacional, da esperanza de que la tele no será el final de la humanidad. En 2010 quitaron los anuncios y sus programas culturales como Versión Española y series históricas como Cuéntame y Amar en Tiempos Revueltos son unas de las mejores. Pero recientemente Diego y yo hemos estado viendo el canal 2, el canal cultural de TVE. Nuestro programa favorito es una versión moderna de Reading Rainbow-Página 2- dedicado a destacar lo mejor de la literatura del momento con conversaciones con autores (con una lectura de su obra), recomendaciones, críticas de películas basados en libros, y una sección para los mini-lectores-donde los niños hablan de sus libros preferidos. Es el mejor programa que se puede encontrar hoy en día. Ver un programa de Página 2 aquí.

Only in Spain

2011-01-12T06:14:00.000+01:00

As this new year begins Diego and I are looking the future directly in the eyes, and getting together plans for the possibility of finishing 2011 back in the states. There is no doubt that I'm eager to return to family and friends- but I can also say it will be difficulte to leave Spain and the famil and friends here. So, I'm going to be dedicating a few entries to the beauituy, simplicity, and delicacies that we enjoy everyday here...and won't have stateside.

I'll begin, obviosuly, with food- specifically deli meats.

When Diego thinks about leaving Spanish ham a tear wells up, but there is so much more too, like thin, cold slices of salty lomo, fresh sausages mixed with eggs in huevos rotos, spicy, fried, and grilled chorizos, salchichón on soft Galician bread, chistorra, butifarra, and so many other varieties (even the deli turey taste different)...all washed down with some rich red wine. Oh how I'll miss the dinner spreads, the tapas, and Saturday lunches from the Spanish deli

Al comienzo del año nuevo, Diego y yo estamos mirando el futuro en los ojos, y preparando los planes para posiblemente acabar el 2011 en USA. No hay duda que tengo ganas de volver a mi familia y amigos, pero tampoco puedo decir que irnos de España-la familia y amigos aquí- no sera difícil. Entonces, voy a ir dedicando algunos blogs a la belleza, sencillez, y delicia que disfrutamos todos los días aquí en España...y no tendremos en USA.

Empiezo obviamente con la comida-específicamente los embutidos.

Cuando Diego piensa en volver a USA sin su querido jamón serrano se le llenan los ojos de lagrimas, pero además que el jamón hay lomo-salado, frío y cortado finito, chorizos frescos, fritos,picantes, criollo, de la parrilla, en huevos rotos, y salchichón en el suave pan gallego, chis torra, butifarra, hasta la pechuga de pavo sabe diferente. Echaré de menos las cenas de tablas, las tapas con una caña, y las comidas de sábado a base de los embutidos españoles.

Kiosko digital

2011-01-10T14:44:00.001+01:00

There is nothing like having real print in paper in your hands, but being so far from home having the chance to flip through some American magazines online is amazing at youkioske.com. All the cheesy American or Spanish gossip magazines are there there...and more. Check it out.

No hay nada como tener la prensa en papel en las manos, pero estando tan lejos de casa la oportunidad de hojear unas revistas americanas en internet en youkioske.com es increíble. Encontrarás todas las revistas del cotilleo americano y español...y más. Míralo aquí.

Transtempo

2011-01-09T12:00:00.005+01:00

Friday we went to a beautiful exhibit Transtempo at the CGAC in Santiago displaying the otherwordly view Spanish photographer Cristina García Rodero presents of three generations of Galicia's people and festivals. I love the perfect summer of the girl sleeping in the sea. Read and see more here.

El viernes fuimos a la exhibición Transtempo en el museo CGAC de Santiago donde vimos la visión surrealista que la fotógrafa Cristina García Rodero presenta de tres generaciones de la gente y las fiestas de Galicia. Me encantó el verano perfecto de la foto de la niña durmiendo en el mar. Leer y ver más aquí.

Reyes:update!

2011-01-08T00:18:00.003+01:00

I'm starting to like these Reyes...they were good to me this year! A pair of olive green rainboots, a cheese book-can't wait to make macaroni and cheese, and cheese cake, an electric blender-which I'll use to make that cheese cake, a subscription to Spanish Elle, and 50 euros to spend at sales!

Ya me están gustando los Reyes...¡me han tratado bien este año-unas katiuskas color verde oliva, un libro de quesos (qué ganas de hacer unos macaronis con queso y una tarta de queso), una batidora electrica (que usaré para hacer la tarta), una subscripción a Elle España, y 50 euros para las rebajas!

Another 2011 resolution...bilingual blog! Otro propósito para el 2011...¡el blog bilingue!

Decant or not to decant

2011-01-07T08:55:00.002+01:00

Do you ever decant your wine? I got a free decanter with a cosmetic purchase last year...but it's still in the box, just seems silly to get another dish dirty. But what do I know, apparently it does change the taste of the wine, so Spanish chef, Martín Berasategui, has designed a new bottle that decants without the decanter. Abadia da Cova, a Galician winery in the Ribeira Sacra will be one of the first to use it. Maybe now I´ll finally decant wine.

Reyes!

2011-01-05T17:20:00.005+01:00

Tonight is the biggest night on the calendar of most Spanish children. Yes, Santa comes on Christmas eve, but bringing even more delight to Spanish kids are the three kings who are in town tonight. They're making their way into cities across the country at about 6pm, welcomed by streets lined with kids waiting to give their letters to the kings postmaster, wave to their favorite king, and then be off to bed so the kings can make their way, house by house, leaving them presents. Many of my students this year didn't want to write the obligatory English class letter to Santa, they wanted to cut to the chase and write to the three kings ("Sorry guys, the three kings only speak Spanish..."wink wink). I have to admit, I'm getting kind of excited for the kings to some to town tomorrow morning too! Off to drop my letter to their postmaster.

Days and Cheeses

2011-01-05T08:44:00.001+01:00

I love this Flora and Fauna calendar-made perfectly to cut and frame after use-and a botanical encyclopedia-and such pretty font! I'd love one of the flora and fauna of Michigan and another of Galicia. Cute cute. Ps...I found these great cheese books at the Corte Ingles-Cheese Course and Gourmet Guide. Maybe I'll get one for Reyes? I'm inspired.

Laura Palmer

2011-01-04T12:09:00.000+01:00

On a leisurely holiday afternoon Diego and I stumbled upon a hidden a little design shop called La Habitación de Laura Palmer. As the Twin Peaks name suggests, you'll find strange things in the tiny shop...especially the decor-the place is flipped upside down, with bed, lamp, rug, night table and even slippers of Ms.Palmer hanging from the ceiling. But mostly what you'll find are original t-shirts designed and pressed to order by the folks sitting at the long table under the bed. I can think of quite a few good presents this shop could make.

La habitación de Laura Palmer is on Casa Reais, 24, in Santiago de Compostela.

No smoking

2011-01-03T10:26:00.004+01:00

My first memory of Spain, from way back in 2003 when I came to study abroad, was seeing people light up cigarettes as soon as they were off the plane. Madrid Barajas was filled with smokers, and from then on, if before the smell of smoke bothered me, now it reminded me of Spain. But, as so many other European countries have adopted new smoking bans, Spain's smoking ban came into full force on January 2. No smoking inside any bars, restaurants, clubs, or other public places and smokers must be 50 meters away from a hospital or playground. Spaniards were up in arms-saying that although many people are actually happy about the change-such a law is infringing on their freedoms. I have to say I can't wait to go out now, coming home still smelling like perfume, not getting smoke in my eyes, and not having that scratchy smoke throat in the morning...wonderful! And another benefit: more terraces all year! Diego was surprised by the number of Parisian terraces that were up in the December cold, but in the European mindset of a long lingering drink and smoke with a newspaper or people watching, even bundling up in the cold under a heater isn't too bad. I think it's going to make Spain even more charming.

Happy Aninovo!!

2011-01-02T12:09:00.003+01:00

We got dressed to the nines (me in red lipstick and brocade and Diego in a suit!) to celebrate 2011 in Pontevedra despite Diego's flu. At midnight I almost ate all 12 grapes-they were the size of small plums...hahaha-next year I'm sure I'll get it and if not out with the grapes and in with the kisses- I have to admit I do prefer a kiss and clinking champagne glasses welcoming in the new year. Hope your celebrations were great, and that this new year is filled love.

Vintage in Pontevedra-no Zara!

Ps...check out these celebrations around the world! My favorites...the face painting and lights in India and the snow covered hats in Moscow.

Happy New Year...

2011-01-01T12:30:00.005+01:00

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!

Hope you had a funfunfun celebration! Isn't a new year always so exciting? That said these are not new year's resolutions...but my plans for this new year...I can't wait!!:

Finally make a headboard for our bed

Learn to take better pics...manually!

Speak more gallego

Bake macarons and coulants

Grow more vegetables

Learn all about Spanish cheese...eat it and write about it. Spanish wine too.

Restaurant reviews in Santiago...there are some hidden gems

Travel...especially Bilbao, San Sebastian, Italy, Prague, UK, or Paris...ahh...there's always Paris.

Drive a stick

Self teach a master's in Peninsular Literature with my private tutor

Buy some amazing investment pieces for my wardrobe...and other amazing not so investment things and wear it all!!

ok, that sounds good. What are your new year plans?

Happy Old Year...

2010-12-31T12:22:00.004+01:00

I'm not really into resolutions in January, I always feel like September is really the new start. But, in any case, I do love the year in review, so here are some of my highlights:

Many trips with my handsome, funny, and loving husband...Lisbon, Madrid, Chicago, Miami, Huelva...where to next?

Traveling through Spain with my Mom! And celebrating Spain's World cup victory!

Visiting the family in Miami's sweltering heat and scary thunderstorms

Making friends at work jumping over bonfires

Discovering the art of Spanish cheese in Asturias

Recovering from jet lag on a beach chair in Huelva with a many shrimp filled meal and a beautiful wedding

Speaking Gallego!

Getting a new couch and coffee table

Seeing, holding, and loving on friends' babies

Summertime in Michigan with friends, lakes, and kayaks

What will the next year hold?

Ps...don't forget to eat 12 grapes in the first 12 chimes of the new year and wear a red underware-both good luck for the new year in Spain.

From Paris...

2010-12-31T12:10:00.004+01:00

Diego is a bit under the weather, so new year's plans may be out...but if we do go out I'll be wearing this necklace he brought me from Paris. What are you wearing tonight??

Oh Iker...

2010-12-30T12:36:00.003+01:00

The best Spanish holiday commercial this year, "Because some of us lifted up the country once, but they lift it up everyday."

Presents!

2010-12-29T13:28:00.004+01:00

Just a few of the lovely presents I received this year! And Reyes is only a week away!

What did you get?

Santa Baby

2010-12-27T12:09:00.000+01:00

Christmas is the time to dream, and while I know neither Santa nor the 3 Kings will be bringing me a new house or decor soon, I'd love to have anything on Vintage&Chic one of my new favorite Spanish blogs. I'm all for art deco, opulent, painting covered walls in my dream house.

(all photos from Vintage&Chic)

And to all a good night...

2010-12-25T20:58:00.002+01:00

Merry Christmas, Bo Nadal, Feliz Navidad! Hope you're having a wonderful holiday filled with love.

Auburn

2010-12-23T18:34:00.002+01:00

I've got red hair!

The no obligation to-do list

2010-12-23T13:03:00.000+01:00

Ahhh...finally on holiday vacation!! Yesterday was the official start of the holiday season in Spain with the Christmas Lottery but today is my official start...and I love looking at the calendar and knowing I wont have to get up at 8am for the next two weeks...and I won't fall asleep by 12am and that I can finally dedicate some time to: finally finish Bolaño's 2666, trying out some recipes in the many books in the kitchen, savouring some magazine time, going to the suegra's house to use the sewing machine, finally figuring out how to curl my hair with a straightner, watching movies (and seeing the end!), and walking around Santiago doing nothing more than taking pictures of this lovely city. What are your plans for some holiday down time?

Trimming

2010-12-22T12:46:00.004+01:00

The annual Christmas haircut is scheduled for tomorrow! I'm going to let it keep growing out...back to some choppy messy long layers and I'm going to keep the bangs...but I'm thinking about a non-permanent color wash...my stylist sister said I should try a reddish auburn...I'm feeling brave!

Imagine new years a la Rita Hayworth look...or easy everyday pretty.

Or should I go darker a la Helena? (btw, this is about my length right now)

Or should I go crazy and get a few honey highlights like a beach babe?

3 days...

2010-12-21T15:21:00.005+01:00

All the shopping is finished...the packages sent...and the presents wrapped. Now we only have to enjoy the next three days until Christmas on the new sofa and with the cutest little tree ever.

tabla de quesos

2010-12-14T14:49:00.006+01:00

The perfect dinner. Coming home from work around 10:30pm after a long evening teaching, cheese, pates and apple membrillo with a glass of wine makes the perfect escape. Thanks Asturias for your delicious cheese. (ps...sorry Francophiles out there, but France has nothing on Spanish wine and cheese. I'm considering making it my new job to let the world know...a cheese and wine research road trip for a new book may be in store.) What's your favorite late night light dinner?

Con duende

2010-12-13T13:56:00.004+01:00

Christmas carols are a bit different in Spain, not as many jingle bells and snowmen and not quite so commercially successful and 24/7 as in the states. But, I have to admit my favorites, and maybe the most surprising, are the flamenco Christmas carols. And, I do like how the songs are about the real Christmas story, usually centered on Mary and Jesus and the shepherds.

Portion Control

2010-12-10T15:31:00.005+01:00

European portions are smaller?? Myth.

Proof: Gigantic Palmera. Seriously the size of my head...or bigger.

Wreath

2010-12-10T14:55:00.006+01:00

I finally found a Styrofoam wreath and some time to make my version of this wreath, it was so easy. I'm starting the red one now...perhaps for a present or for the door.

with love from Paris...

2010-12-08T09:19:00.000+01:00

Christmas came early via the prettiest and most delicious macaroons fresh from Paris from mon petit amie toujours.

Eating-Asturian Style

2010-12-07T14:58:00.004+01:00

Everything was so delicious in Asturias, especially the cheese and pastries! Asturias is famous for Sidra-alcholic apple cider that isn't sweet or fizzy like you might expect but subtle and best tasting when hand poured from a stretched arm into a tilted glass splashing everywhere. The first restaurant we went to even had sawdust on the floor to keep you from slipping on the splashed cider!

Cheese-The first thing we discovered. Incredible aged goat cheese, smoked cheese, blue cheeses (Cabrales), and some weird spreadable orange cheese...all served on lovely wood boards with nuts and apple jelly. Heavenly. (Check out the list of cheeses here)

Casadielles-the typical sweet treat of Asturias, flakey pastry, filled with nutty sweetness and sprinkled in powered sugar. I'll just say I had one every day and brought home a box...they were that good. (Try the recipe)

And of course, Fabada. Special white beans from Asturias (a kilo can cost up to 20 euros!) stewed with bacon and chorizo. The fabas really are incredible...such a smooth delicate flavor.

Asturias: natural paradise...and foodie paradise.

Oviedo Cathedral

2010-12-07T10:34:00.000+01:00

The cathedral in Oviedo is probably one of my favorites. Subdued and elegant, the gothic lines and symmetry were stunning on the floors, the windows, the alter, and the relics.

Asturias

2010-12-06T22:23:00.003+01:00

Girly weekend in Oviedo was a perfect start to the Christmas season with the most lovely gothic cathedral, pretty Christmas trees and lights strung up around the city. More food, coast, and culture and to come...

Happy Weekend

2010-12-03T10:41:00.001+01:00

We have a long weekend in Spain for the national holiday to celebrate the constitution. Me and some ladies are off for a girly weekend in Oviedo. I'm hoping to snatch up some lovely presents...maybe a few for me...and spend some time bundled up on snowy streets with twinkling lights. I finally pulled out the Christmas carols this week, and this is one of my favorites. Enjoy it, and enjoy your weekend! besitos

Qué frío!

2010-12-02T15:31:00.003+01:00

I've heard its snowing back in the states...and all over Europe people are also waking up and dealing with snow. Here in Spain, Galicia has been the worst affected, but so far nothing but a tiny dusting last night in Santiago so I'm off to work. But it is freezing...good thing I bought my hot water bottle for the bed...classic, cheap, and so warm!

Incredible

2010-11-30T23:11:00.008+01:00

This summer I read What is the What, an incredible novel by Dave Eggers about the life of a lost boy, telling his memories while he struggles in his new life in the states. I haven't cried so much in a long time. I was moved to see this story of a lost boys returning to Sudan as a man and hear his struggle with purpose, culture, and the future.